Do you remember that a couple of years ago i
went on holiday to northern Germany with
Maddy? Well this year she asked me again hoping i
think to get some inside information from my experience as she was heading to
the
Fiona suggested we take the train to
We awoke to the patter of rain on the tent and a very soggy
campsite so as we had a long day ahead of us we packed up quickly and were soon
on our way to the shores of Bodensee where after a cuppa
we caught the ferry across the lake to Lindau in
Certainly Mad was quite tired when we stopped for a light lunch at a little bakery, the sun was beating down and it was in the high 20's or low 30's. Refreshed we set off again toward Immenstadt where our campsite was on the edge of the Alpsee. We arrived quite early, before five, its a good job we were booked in as the place was hosting a triathlon and the site was full to overflowing! After a walk by the lake we had a nice dinner at the site then chilled some more watching the sunset by the lake.
It was dry and sunny next morning and after negotiating our way
past the triathlon we headed for
The road climbed for quite a distance until we reached Oy before dropping again as we returned to the Alpenvorland. Mad's was gasping by the time we stopped in Nesselwang for another late lunch then it was the final assault to our destination. We were booked in a hotel at Hohenschwangau for a couple of nights so that i could take Mads to the castles, we were both glad of a cool shower in our room after another very warm day. The pleasant evening saw us joining many people walking around the lake before eating in a restaurant in the village.
I was a bit miffed at getting up so early on a Sunday but after a quick breakfast we soon joined the queue for castle tickets managing to get on the first English tour of the day at Hohenschwangau then two hours later at Neuschwanstein. It's difficult to describe what you see on the tours, photographs are not allowed but its fair to say you'll never see anything like it anywhere else. After our visits Mad was keen to show me something at Tegelberg so we collected Foxy to take us the short ride to the cable car.
It was such a nice day that Mad sprang for a ride to the top where we watched people jumping off the mountain for a while before returning to the bottom where we got some lunch. Afterwards we made our way into Fussen where they were having a medieval fair so after a quick look at the schloss we spent a while looking around the old town before returning to the hotel. Once again we ended up eating in sight of the castles but decided on an early night as we would be travelling again on the morrow.
Overnight rain left the roads damp for our departure but after
the previous heat we were quite happy to be riding in slightly cooler
conditions. Today we were heading to Bad Tolz, i managed to navigate us to Weis church before going south
through a very quiet
Mads wanted to try a real mountain pass today so as it was only
overcast and not raining we set off to conquer the
The weather returned to bright and sunny for our circumnavigation of the lake which took us pretty much all day. There's not a lot to see, views across to the castle on Herrenchiemsee, boats, bathers, you get the idea. We took a little side trip to look at some archaeology then a longer one to visit Traunstein where we had, yup, another late lunch. then it was back to the lake to complete the circuit. We had a good dinner at the campsite as we were heading into the mountains next day.
It was overcast again when we set off for Koenigsee
and we had a few drops of rain before we stopped for the Mammoth museum at Siegsdorf. Then we took the road to Ruhpolding
before heading towards Bad Reichenhall. It was still
dry when we arrived in the salt town but by the time we set off for
The heavy rain overnight gave way to fine drizzle by the time
we set off, first taking a daylight look at Koenigsee
lake before dropping back to Berchtesgaden to start the day's excitement. Mad
wanted to visit the Kehlsteinhaus so we set off for Obersalzburg where you take the bus up the mountain from. Its a very steep and long climb which took a good hour to do
and the rain was quite persistent by the time we ducked into the restaurant for
a coffee. It seemed senseless going up in this weather so coffee became early
lunch before we headed over the hill into
Dark skies greeted us next day as we started a long day tracing the Salzbach river up to our next stop at Zell am See. On the coach we miss all the twisty roads, passes and gorges that we travelled along all morning, the autobahn often hiding in tunnels as it heads south. We grabbed some lunch at St Johann / Pongau then the valley turns west taking us past dramatic waterfalls, through tunnels and the chance to watch gold panning in the fast flowing river waters. By the time we found the campsite the weather was improving with a glint of sun over the mountains to the south.
This was another two night stop to give Mads a bit of a rest but i still convinced her to walk around the lake to Zell itself for some dinner! The original plan for the 'rest' day was to ride up the pass to the Gross Gloeckner, I have to say Mad didn't take much convincing to catch the post bus instead. Mountain weather is very changeable and on the north side of the pass it was pretty grotty at times as we climbed to nearly 2500m then on the south side it gave way to dry and sunny all the way to the somewhat depleted Gross Gloeckner glacier. We looked out for marmot's and ibex, hit the souvenir shop and posed for pictures before catching the return bus. We were back in Zell by two so Mad suggested a short bike ride around the lake which ended up at over 40km! As we'd done Zell during the day we ate at the campsite, 'homemade' pizza, Austrian Sunday TV and tea - great preperation for another long ride.
The weather was determined to be kind after another damp night
and by the time we reached Kaprun the sun was out and
things were warming up. Today we were aimed at Mayrhofen
which meant a long ride up the remainder of the Salzbachtal
to Krimml and then over the
Mad wanted to ride over to Italy today so we set off before
nine, the road very quickly climbing steeply through tunnels and a narrow
gorge, about three quarters of the way up Mad ran out of steam. After a bit of
discussion we decided to retrace and head for Innsbruck instead so we returned
to Mayrhofen (3 hours round trip!) then on down the
valley to join the Inntal grabbing some lunch on the
way. From there we passed by
We were booked into a campsite at Solden
in the Oetztal the following night so we made our way
up the
We'd already been to the planned stop for today so we reached our destination of Landeck at lunchtime. It started out quite damp but by the time we broke for a late breakfast at Imst things were improving and it was quite pleasant by the time we set up the tent. As we were so early Mad could have a rest from the bike and we spent the afternoon exploring the shops, visiting the Schloss and getting in some supplies for our al fresco dinner back at the tent.
To get back to
The penultimate riding day started nice and bright, we were
headed first to Lichtenstein before going on to our last campsite at Appenzell in
Our final bike day started like so many before, damp, well
raining in fact, we had a rendezvous with Fiona in
We met with Fiona for a drink then headed for our hotel out near the hotel arriving shortly before the rain! I had a nice shower whilst Mad repacked Foxy for the flight home, we spent the evening talking, we even forgot to get some dinner. The trip home was uneventful thankfully both of us getting home mid afternoon - just as well as i had to go into Global next day and Mad was back at work too! Despite the often damp weather we had a fun trip, maybe i can get Maddy to use more hotels if we go again though, it was a nightmare keeping stuff dry!
Nena Ziegler